Wheel Offsets Explained: How to Get the Perfect Stance for Your 4WD

Wheel Offsets Explained: How to Get the Perfect Stance for Your 4WD

Wheel offset is the difference between a 4WD that looks tough and drives properly… and one that rubs, scrubs, chews tyres and annoys you every time you hit full lock.

It’s also one of the most misunderstood parts of building a ute or 4WD. Everyone wants the wide stance. Everyone wants the tyres sitting just right under the guards. But if you choose offset blindly, you’ll pay for it later.

So let’s break it down properly, no fluff, no guesswork, just real-world 4x4 knowledge.

What Is Wheel Offset (Without the Engineering Degree)?

Offset (ET) is simply how far in or out the wheel sits in relation to your hub.

Think of it like this:

• High positive offset = wheel tucked in
  
• Low offset = wheel pushed out
  
• Negative offset = wheel way out wide

Offset is measured in millimetres, and those few millimetres make a huge difference on a 4WD.

Lower the offset → wider stance → tougher look → more potential issues if you don’t choose correctly.

Why Offset Matters on a 4WD (Not Just for Looks)

Offset isn’t just about stance photos and car park flexing. On a 4WD or ute, it directly affects:

• Guard clearance at full lock
  
• Rubbing under articulation
  
• Upper control arm clearance
  
• Steering feel
  
• Turning circle
  
• Wheel bearing life
  
• Whether your setup is legal

We see it all the time: great-looking wheels, wrong offset, constant rubbing. Offset is the foundation, get it right and everything else works better.

The Common Offset Ranges (What They Actually Mean in the Real World)

High Positive Offset (+40 to +55): Factory Spec

This is what most 4WDs roll out of the showroom with.

What it’s good for:

• Zero rubbing
  
• OEM steering feel
  
• Fully legal everywhere
  
• Perfect for stock suspension

Downside:
 Looks narrow. Not much presence. Limited clearance for wider tyres.

Mid-Range Offset (+20 to +35): The Touring Sweet Spot

This is where most sensible 4WD builds land.

Why it works:

• Better stance without going wild
  
• Clears most suspension components
  
• Plays nicely with mild lifts
  
• Works well with 265–285 tyres
  

If you’ve got a Hilux, Ranger, D-MAX, BT-50 or Triton that does touring, towing and weekend dirt, this range is hard to beat.

Low Offset (0 to +10): Tough, Wide, Purposeful

Now we’re talking proper 4x4 stance.

Why people love it:

• Wider track
  
• Aggressive look
  
• More inner clearance for big tyres
  
• Suits lifted rigs

What to watch for:

• Guard rub is more likely
  
• Heavier steering feel
  
• May push legal limits depending on state
  
• Often needs trimming with 33s

Perfect for weekend warriors and builds that actually see ruts, mud and flex.

Negative Offset (-12, -25, etc.): Hardcore Territory

This is full-send territory.

Pros:

• Maximum width
  
• Big visual impact

Reality check:

• Rubbing is almost guaranteed
  
• Increased stress on bearings and steering
  
• Usually not road legal without mods
  
• Not daily-driver friendly

Great for off-road-only or heavily modified rigs, not ideal for most daily-driven 4WDs.

Offset + Tyres = The Real Equation

Offset doesn’t exist in isolation. It works hand-in-hand with:

• Tyre width
  
• Tyre diameter
  
• Tread aggression
  
• Wheel width

For example:

• A 285 M/T on a +20 wheel behaves very differently to a 285 M/T on a 0 offset wheel.
  
• Aggressive side lugs bite guards way earlier than a mild A/T.

This is why copying someone else’s setup without knowing the specs is risky.

Does a Lift Fix Offset Problems? (Short Answer: No)

This is one of the biggest myths in 4WD builds.

A suspension lift gives you vertical clearance.
 Offset controls horizontal clearance.

You can lift your rig 2–3 inches and still rub just as badly if the offset is wrong. Offset determines where the tyre sits, lift only changes ride height.

The Truth About Rubbing (And Why It Happens)

Rubbing usually comes from:

• Too much tyre width
  
• Too aggressive tread
  
• Too low offset
  
• Wrong wheel width
  
• Incorrect tyre diameter
  

Offset is often the tipping point.

That’s why we always ask:

• Vehicle model & year
  
• Lift height
  
• Tyre size
  
• Intended use

Before recommending an offset.

Queensland Legalities (QLD)

• Maximum track increase: up to 50mm total (25mm per side)
  
• Applies without engineering on most light vehicles
  
• Wheels must remain covered by guards or flares
  
• Negative offsets can easily exceed limits on wider wheels

Tip: QLD is relatively forgiving, but aggressive offsets still need checking.

Important Things Most People Miss

• Offset + wheel width + tyre width all affect track width
  
• Two wheels with the same offset can still change track width if widths differ
  
• Aggressive tyres with big side lugs can push you over the limit even if the wheel itself is legal
  
• Lifts do not change track width legality
  
• What “passes a roadworthy” isn’t always what’s legal long-term

Engineered vs Non-Engineered Builds

If your setup exceeds your state’s limits:

• Engineering certification may make it legal
  
• Insurance companies may require documentation
  
• Roadside defects can still occur if coverage or protrusion rules aren’t met

Always weigh stance vs compliance before choosing very low or negative offsets.

Final Thoughts: Offset Is Where Builds Are Won or Lost

Wheel offset is the detail that separates a clean, functional 4WD from one that constantly annoys you. Get it right and your rig will:

• Look tough
  
• Drive properly
  
• Clear at full lock
  
• Flex without drama
  
• Last longer mechanically

At Bud’s Tyres, we spec offsets every day for Hiluxes, Rangers, LandCruisers, Patrols and work utes all over Australia. If you’re unsure what offset will suit your tyres, lift and driving style, ask before you order.

It’ll save you money, frustration and a lot of guard trimming.